Dish Dryer Performance

Perfect Pairing: Wines worth a Thai

“Crispy Trout,” a fileted rainbow fried to golden brown and served upright on a skewer, gets Jake Bliven’s mouth to watering just talking about it.

Chefs at Sweet Basil Thai Cuisine in Eugene cook the trout in its skin for moist meat. Try one scrape off the light deep-fry, Bliven says, and your palate awakens to fresh, new, lively flavors. Try the apple/veggie salad next, and a whole other delicacy stirs the senses.

“With every bite of Thai food, you get a different flavor, it seems like,” says Bliven, beverage director and popular bartender at the downtown Eugene restaurant. “It’s kind of fun to clear the palate and then see what you’re going to experience on the next little nibble.”

Sweet Basil, opened about six years ago and owned by Kuraya Chulacharit and Max Stabin, offers ample local and world wines for refreshing taste buds between nibbles.

Bliven has just two “rules” for pairing wines with Thai fare:

“You don’t want overly oaked whites,” he says. “Your barrel flavors — vanillin, vanilla, bourbon — don’t play with your typical Thai dishes.

“Another thing you want to avoid, and this is primarily with the reds, is highly tannic wines,” he continues. “Overly tannic wines tend to amplify the heat factor of a dish.”

To play it safe, choose white wines with “subtle hints” of stone fruits to complement Thai food, Bliven says. “By stone fruits we mean peaches, nectarines, apricots — basically any fruit that has the big pit in the middle,” he says with a grin. “Then I love looking for hints of lemongrass and citrus” in white wines.

Whites he likes: Willamette Valley pinot gris, namely from the King Estate and Sweet Cheeks wineries; dryer rieslings; light muscat, namely from Silvan Ridge Winery near Eugene; sparkling wines, which are “great for cutting really rich foods and acting as a palate cleanser”; German gewürztraminer, the standby wine for Asian food; and citrusy sauvignon blanc from New Zealand’s Marlborough region.

Reds just ducky

Red wines can be savory matches with heavier Thai fare, including duck, lamb and curries. The trick is finding aromatic, light-bodied reds low in tannins. Bliven recommends King Estate’s pinot noir for the restaurant’s “Lamb Mussaman,” an 8-ounce baked rack of lamb served with carrots, potatoes, onions and peanuts in a rich, creamy Thai curry. The wine has “a little barrel, but not too much,” and imparts flavors of black cherry, dark chocolate and other dark fruits. “But it’s not too heavy,” Bliven says. “It’s heavy enough to play with the curry, but not heavy enough to take the curry out of its main stage, so to speak.

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